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Thread: Bergums Dieseldyr - SJ419td

  1. #51
    Dieseldyr Bergum's Avatar
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    Litt nye deler.
    Både baklys, ryggelys og handbrekkwire.

    Vakumpumpa er og kommet, i morgen er det å begynne å spleise ledninger....

    PS, Det er vel lov å bruke tåkelys som ryggelys?????
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  2. #52
    Dieseldyr Bergum's Avatar
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    Fått montert nye brekkwire, ikke det at det hjalp, men de virker nå i allefall litt.
    Tror jeg må ta bremsene fra bunnen av....
    Og være på jakt etter en ny hovedsylindet så jeg kan få skiver bak og.

    Har og fått alt av lys bak til å fungere, det vil si at jeg har satt inn Biltema baklykter inntil videre, så får vi heller se hva jeg bygger bak..

    Nå mangler bare å få fart i bremsekraftforsterkeren, så jeg får litt bedre bremser.

    Ja, og så er skiltene på plass.....
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  3. #53
    let's wheel! ShuDuck's Avatar
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    meget lekkert med de dekkene og svarte felger
    wut?

  4. #54
    skrukæll sven's Avatar
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    bare å få på en hel fin svart lang topp nå, så blir den jo skikkelig fin.

    Men hvite skilter er vel litt feil, skulle den ikke hatt grønne? Den er vel fortasatt varebil?

  5. #55
    Dieseldyr Bergum's Avatar
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    Ja. Det skulle den, det står grønne skilt i vognkortet, den har hvite, og, beste av alt....

    https://svvgw.vegvesen.no/http://tim...tidspunkt.aspx

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    Det er vel bare middlertidig,men må leve i håpet :-)
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  6. #56
    Dieseldyr Bergum's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sven View Post
    bare å få på en hel fin svart lang topp nå, så blir den jo skikkelig fin.

    Men hvite skilter er vel litt feil, skulle den ikke hatt grønne? Den er vel fortasatt varebil?
    Ja, Den toppen ligger i hagen her, må bare male den svart først.
    Ja, og vente til bilen er et år, så jeg har lov å ta av den lille toppen uten å få ei helvetes bot....
    Sånn er det å ha biler som er UNDER 10 år....
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  7. #57
    skrukæll sven's Avatar
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    Det er da ingen som kan nekte deg å ha hardtopp over planet, men da må du sette inn skillevegg bak setene slik at varerommet oppfyller samme krav som det gjør i dag..

  8. #58
    Dieseldyr Bergum's Avatar
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    Vet det, men akkurat nå går vi mot vinter ( Det er meldt snø om 14 dager) og da er det greit med liten kupe :-)
    Til våren, så er bilen over 10 år, og da skal jeg ha hvite silter på bilen.....
    Vent litt, Jeg har jo hvite skilter på bilen....
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  9. #59
    Jævla treg bilbygger Ove's Avatar
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    Nå er ikke jeg noen ekspert på reglene , men er det ikke slik at når du registerer bilen inn som varebil , må den gå som varebil i 10 år før du kan regge den om til personbil avgiftsfritt ? Uavhengig av alder ?

    Trodde at hvis en importerer en bruktbil til Norge , og velger å tolle samt regge den som varebil , må den stå på grønne skilter i 10 år .

    Og det som er gjort med dette smykket , er vel på en måte sammenlignbart ?
    .




    Prosjektkommentar fra en småmisunnelig SJ-garasje .......
    Quote Originally Posted by Tommy View Post
    Det er vel ikke like motiverende å jobbe for å få ferdig verdens første Sørlandsskuffe med V8....

  10. #60
    Dieseldyr Bergum's Avatar
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    Yepp, Men denne er nybilimportert (sideimport) og regget som varebil, i 3 år, før den gikk over på Sorte skilt, dermed bar det tilbake til Grønne (Hvite) som blir konverter til hvite personbil på min 40årsdag som bursdagspresang til megselv.

    Den grønne jeg hadde, Bølle, den hadde og hvite skilt, men sto som grønne i vognkortet, dette ble endret når jeg satt inn baksetet...
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  11. #61
    Jævla treg bilbygger Ove's Avatar
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    Aha , slik å forstå

    Veggen er enkel å fjerne når du kommer til den anstendige alder av 40 , eller må du hente inn deler fra en donor ?
    .




    Prosjektkommentar fra en småmisunnelig SJ-garasje .......
    Quote Originally Posted by Tommy View Post
    Det er vel ikke like motiverende å jobbe for å få ferdig verdens første Sørlandsskuffe med V8....

  12. #62
    Dieseldyr Bergum's Avatar
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    Den veggen er skrudd med 20 skruer ser det ut som, men er enkel å ta ut.
    Regner med at dette blir vinterhabitten til bilen så lenge jeg ikke trenger 4 seter.
    Lager et Alulokk til planet så jeg slipper å skuffe planet hver gang det har snødd....?

    Blir kjapt å varme opp inne i bilen da.
    Skal jeg ut med flere, så er de kjapt å hive av lokk og bakvegg, og sette på hardtoppen, og reise opp setet....
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  13. #63
    Dieseldyr Bergum's Avatar
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    Måtte finne en skråkant...

    Litt dårlige mobilbilder.
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  14. #64
    Dieseldyr Bergum's Avatar
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    Har vært ute å kikket på vakumproblemet mitt. Har en vacumpumpe fra en Volvo S40 (som anbefalt) og koblet den direkte på batteriet, med en bryter i mellom.
    N har jeg altså semimaunell bremsekraftforsterker.
    Trykk på en knapp for gode bremser :-)

    Har en vacumbryter et eller annet sted og, og når jeg finner den igjen, så har jeg plutselig gode bremser og :-)
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  15. #65
    Avdanka biltrialfører Tommy's Avatar
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    hvorfor ikke koble den til tenning??
    Tommy Olsen
    tlf: 94141987
    tommy @ pirate4x4.no

  16. #66
    Dieseldyr Bergum's Avatar
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    Fordi den ikke skal gå hele tiden mens en kjører.
    Når jeg får inn vacumbryter, så skal den på tenningen...
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  17. #67
    skrukæll sven's Avatar
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    da regner jeg med at du har et reservoar og, ellers tror jeg du like godt kunne kobla den rett på tenninga, eller på bremselysbryteren

  18. #68
    Dieseldyr Bergum's Avatar
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    Tester om det er nok resrovar i slangene, eller så blir det en liten tank, ja....
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  19. #69
    Avdanka biltrialfører Tommy's Avatar
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    Det er vel normalt sett reservoar i bremsekraftforsterkeren...
    Tommy Olsen
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    tommy @ pirate4x4.no

  20. #70
    Dieseldyr Bergum's Avatar
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    Pr def så har de ikke, i hvertfall ikke i forhold til bremsepumpa.

    http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-p...wer-brake1.htm



    Dermed vil jeg ikke oppnå noe reservoar effekt for å forhindre at vacumpumpa får i tide og utide.
    Vet ikke om dette vil ha noe å bety uansett...?
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  21. #71
    Dieseldyr Bergum's Avatar
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    Denne er den samme som sitter i 1,9TD utgaven av SuZuki

    Peugeot 306 TD tuning guide..... CHIP - 17-1-2006 at 03:54 AM

    I saw this on....

    http://johns306.com/forum/index.php

    They seem more interested in tuning etc, however they made frequent comparisons between Garrett and KKK turbos. It seems the Garrett kicks in far earlier and I guess this may permit the engine to heat faster.

    Any opinions or views on the article as a whole?


    Tuning a Peugeot 306 Turbo-Diesel (mechanical type)

    After a lot of people asking for help in this area I've decided to put this page up. It is not my own work and I cannot remember who originally forwarded me this document. From what I have heard it has originated from the Peugeot Sports Club forum and been passed around and re-written many times. The copy you see below is how it was taken from the document I was sent.

    I will be re-writing this document as I get the pictures together, along with observations and my own experiences with my turbo-tweaking. I'll also say that I will in no way be held responsible for ANYTHING you do to your own vehicle, this guide is for your information only.

    ** Update 28/04/04 ** Some information relating to solenoids and switches has been removed to avoid confusion. I the original document it was suggested that a solenoid could be used as an "economy" mode. This has since been shown to have no effect on economy or performance.

    **Update 18/06/04 ** Added some more details to help people find the right tools before you start.



    Engine
    The modifications I have carried out are only applicable to the pre-HDI engine car, i.e. the engines with the Bosch or Lucas Mechanical fuel injection pumps.

    When I drove the standard car I felt the mid-range power was good, but the throttle response under 2000 rpm was tardy, turbo lag noticeable and the top end rev range was restrictive.



    Injection Pump and Fuelling
    The majority of the improvements to the power band are achieved by increasing the maximum fuel setting and the boost compensator fuelling. The standard car like all diesels is set-up very lean. The procedure to adjust the fuelling is not difficult, but requires many careful and small incremental changes, and many test drives until the optimum settings are found.
    The limit of the performance is related to either the amount a smoke produced or/and the reduced fuel economy that can be tolerated. The smoking is un-burnt diesel, which is mainly seen when the engine is laboured off-boost i.e. under 2000 rpm.

    The tuning technique I've used is derived from many sources, you will not find any information on this in the Haynes manual as it's not a maintenance procedure, and the text will state 'recommended only by an authorised dealer'. Do n't be put off, it's not that difficult.



    Boost compensator Fuelling
    The maximum fuel setting has the greatest effect on performance controlling about 80% of fuel delivery, for this reason I would adjust the boost compensator fuelling first. The procedure to increase the boost compensator fuelling is similar on both the Lucas and Bosch pumps. The boost compensator unit can be recognised by a brass coloured diagram assembly connected to the intercooler by a vacuum hose. Unscrew the external 14mm lock nut and turn the adjuster anti-clockwise. The adjustment range is about 1.5 to 2.5 turns (adjustment can be made in half turns). The setting is not so critical; running the car rich from the compensator does not make a great performance difference.



    Maximum Fuel Settings
    The maximum fuel setting is located in different positions for the Lucas and Bosch pumps. On the Lucas pump a large plastic plug is found on the front of the pump. This must be unscrewed and the pump will empty its contents of diesel. Put a plastic bag over the alternator to protect it. Using a small mirror look inside the pump and you may see a hole with a recessed socket head bolt. I think it's about a 5mm size Allen key. If this can not be seen put the engine in gear and rock the car. You will see a cylinder assembly rotate in the pump. It will need to rotate about 180 degrees to reveal the maximum fuel screw. The screw will need to be turned clockwise. To access the screw you will need to insert the long part of the Allen key. Don't use a ball type driver, as the ball may break-off in the pump. The screw to quite tight and so a spanner will need to be used on the end of the key. The range of adjustment is a relative 20 to 40 degrees (40 degrees is rich, make adjustments in about 10 degree increments). Replace the plug; prime the pump and test drive. Look for evidence of smoke off-boost. Repeat the procedure until the desired performance, smoke level and economy compromise is reached.

    With the Bosch pump the procedure is much easier. The maximum fuel screw is located on the top right side of the pump. It will have a tamper proof fitting on it, which will need to be removed. This screw is adjusted clockwise up to about 90 degrees (again use about 10 to 20 degree increments).



    Maximum Engine Speed
    Another simple modification I did was to raise the maximum engine speed to about 5,200rpm (See the Haynes manual). Although I don't rev the engine above 5,000 rpm it has allowed the engine to rev freely to 5,000 rpm, as the standard rev limiter effects the engine at about 4,600 rpm onwards. The improvement is seen when accelerating through the gears.



    Idle Speed
    I increased my idle speed to about 950 rpm. The engine seems more comfortable at this speed, and it helps the engine pick-up quicker from stationary starts.



    Turbo charger and Boost
    My car is fitted with the Garret T2. The standard boost is 14 to 15 PSI on full load @ 3000 rpm. I have increased the boost to the maximum I believe the T2 can produce on this engine, by shortening the waste-gate adjustment arm. I've heard of some people bending the arm to increase the boost if the threads are ceased, I leave that decision to yourself? The boost I run is about 17.5 PSI @ 3000 rpm under full load, peaking a about 19 - 20 PSI @ 4000 rpm. I've heard of higher, but my gauge is calibrated. My car also develops standard boost @ 2500 rpm, about a 1000 rpm lower than standard. I recommend raising the boost if possible, but the car must at least have the standard boost.

    The KKK type turbo has a locking nut and adjuster on the end of it. The locking nut I believe is a 13mm or 14mm nut and the adjuster needs to be turned about 1 and 1/2 turns clockwise to turn up to about 1.3bar. The adjuster is turned using a 2.5mm allen key. A 2.0mm key will fit but it will not turn the adjuster properly. See this guide for more info

    The performance gains above 15 PSI boost diminish quite quickly as the charge temperature raises rapidly. However, if the car produces less than 15PSI boost the increase in boost to standard will yield a relatively higher gain in performance than above. I would not recommend raising the boost above say 18 PSI (peak boost) unless uprated intercooling was used.

    Remember, the boost pressures and fuelling are not independent on a diesel engine. The waste gate is a final mechanical pressure blow-off, if the fuelling is the limiting factor, additional boost will not be gained. Hence, when tuning the car check the boost as the fuel increments are made. On my car I measure the boost from a 'T' piece I have inserted into the injection pump compensator vacuum hose.

    The new HDI engine has been fitted with the Garret GT15 turbo which is smaller and more efficient than the T2 it replaced. On driving the new HDI car the engine has excellent low speed pick-up, revved smoothly and is much quieter. However, this turbo being smaller will limit the top-end potential of the engine. The GT15 is designed around 110BHP maximum on a diesel engine, as the bigger T2 it replaced will flow up to about 130BHP.



    Summary of the Tuning procedure

    1. Check the boost, it must be at least 15PSI @ 3000 rpm under full load.
    2. Adjust boost compensation fuelling on the pump - set when a small increase in the amount of smoke is seen when the engine is laboured under 2000 rpm.
    3. Isolate the boost compensator fuelling as described in note below.
    4. Adjust maximum fuelling on pump - set when a small amount of smoke is seen when the engine is laboured under 2000 rpm.
    5. Re-connect the boost compensator hose.
    5. Check the boost, and adjust the wastegate if necessary.
    6. Repeat 4 - clockwise to increase fuel or anti-clockwise to decrease fuel - until the optimum compromise is found for smoke emission, performance and fuel economy. This process of careful adjustment was carried out over a period weeks, I carefully monitored visual smoke emissions and fuel economy during the period.


    Note: To isolate the effects of the compensator from the effects of the maximum fuel screw since the compensator has little effect when set to rich, simply pull-off the vacuum hose from the compensator and plug-off it off with stopper, say a bolt (on the intercooler side !).

    There are a few Diesel tuners in the business who charge a great deal of money for this process which I've done for friends in about an hour!
    Vegit8 - 17-1-2006 at 10:35 AM

    CHIP

    Thanks it looks like a good article, I will archive this as the 306 TD or similar is on my shortlist for next car and adjustments to boost could be a good modification I haven't come across.

    A good link for the most important part Injection Pump and Fuelling adjustments (Bosch only) is here: URL
    Injection Pump and Fuelling

    The majority of the improvements to the power band are achieved by increasing the maximum fuel setting and the boost compensator fuelling. The standard car like all diesels is set-up very lean. The procedure to adjust the fuelling is not difficult, but requires many careful and small incremental changes, and many test drives until the optimum settings are found.
    The limit of the performance is related to either the amount a smoke produced or/and the reduced fuel economy that can be tolerated. The smoking is un-burnt diesel, which is mainly seen when the engine is laboured off-boost i.e. under 2000 rpm.
    Vegit8
    CHIP - 22-1-2006 at 03:54 AM

    Manufacturers generally set up diesels to run lean (lambda=1.5-1.6) for emissions purposes, so in most cases you can get quite a significant power boost by increasing the fuelling to lambda=1

    Here is a garage offering to make most of these alterations http://www.zen19051.zen.co.uk/Mechan...l%20tuning.htm
    Dump Valve Video http://www.zen19051.zen.co.uk/prod01.htm

    Thought this might be a good addition to this thread

    Max fuel setting coupled with the diaphragm mod, did increase smoke. The max fuel setting should only altered an 1/8 turn at a time.

    I have done a couple of these mods on my 405 (boost compensator and fuelling). It's worked a treat, it feels a lot more grunty now and the power delivery isn't so off/on
    I found these articles a lot more helpful than the 306 one

    http://autospeed.com/cms/A_109291/article.html
    http://autospeed.com/cms/A_109300/article.html
    http://autospeed.com/cms/A_109306/article.html
    http://autospeed.com/cms/A_109344/article.html
    http://autospeed.com/cms/A_109345/article.html
    mark - 29-1-2009 at 08:35 PM

    I followed john's instructions and it's made a big differance to my 405, but I used a boost valve from ebay instead of messing with the waste gate.
    philb - 31-1-2009 at 03:42 PM
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  22. #72
    Dieseldyr Bergum's Avatar
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    Da er vi i gang for å finne giringen på bilen.
    Mange valg vet du.
    Noen sier 4.16:1, men jeg har lyst på 4.6:1 ......

    http://pirate4x4.no/forum/showthread.php?t=37655
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  23. #73
    Dieseldyr Bergum's Avatar
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    Da har jeg endelig fått sporet opp ei vacum pumpe.
    Sitter samme på Rover som SJ..... Tror jeg.... Det finner jeg ut av senere.

    Pris i Norge for pumpen 5000kr.
    Pris fra England 361.78 NOK

    Sånt liker vi....

    Skal vi se, neste ting...

    Jo, Skjermer med bue og alt. 4500kr + moms og frakt fra Let7.dk
    Så var det da den giringen da......
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  24. #74
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    den så da utrolig strøken ut - etter en vask eller no... likte stuket på den hvite der (side 2 eller no) er det dit du skal?
    Børre Bratvold
    NTC - Norsk Trophy Club

  25. #75
    Dieseldyr Bergum's Avatar
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    Har lyst til å korte den inn til hjulbuen bak.
    Får se etterhvert når den nye godkjenningsordningen kommer på plass...
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